Making old patterns new

Normally, I (Major Moma) like to buy a pattern that I think I can make over and over again.  There is just so much that you can do by changing up fabrics or trims that you can really make a fresh garment every time.   Yet, since starting Sew Cool with Sally, I have been buying a lot more patterns in order to be able to review new patterns that all of you may be interested in.  And as much as I like to pattern shop and support pre-teen patternmakers, it does get expensive.

So, when I wanted to whip up a couple of shorts for the summer, I realized I only had one pattern in my daughter's size and that I did not want to purchase another one just right now.  So, I took out that old, and well used pattern and figured out how to use it for this season.

In October 2013 I wrote a pattern review of this pattern; Simplicity 3813.  The pattern has multiple views and I had not yet sewn all of them, but I have been slowly through the years working my way through them and have sewn view A a couple times.  This was my first time sewing view E.

The shorts are a bubble style, which seems to be quite popular right now and and this view the other shorts view have some nice details.  They do have a zipper fly and my daughter opted for a snap instead of a button closure.

Even with all the details and zipper, it remains a moderately easy sew.  I think an adventurous beginner would do just great on these shorts.

I did make a few changes to make them suit my daughter.  And I think this is key.  When you have an old pattern like this, there are several adjustments, big and small, that you can do to make it fresh.  Because let's face it, we can't always go buy a new pattern.

The embroidery is from urbanthreads.com.

So what changes did I make?  First, I used adjustable waist elastic in the back so that they will fit her better and yet have room to grow.  Also, I changed up the pockets a bit borrowing from view G.  And, Abi likes her shorts longer (and I do too) so I lengthened the pink ones quite a bit and the brown ones just a little.

The trims were some fun ribbons I bought in the $1 section at Target.  I am always looking for good deals on trims and when I saw these cute ribbons I grabbed them up even though I am sure they are for paper crafting.  Fun trims can really change up an old pattern too.

How do you change up your old patterns?  We would love to hear your tips!

Simplicity 3813 view A

Today I will be reviewing a pattern I have sewn a few times in the past.  The pictures I have included are from my most recent version, but I have sewn this a couple times before I started blogging for both my daughter and her cousin.

The Review:

The pattern: Simplicity 3813; view A

Pattern source: You may purchase this pattern at nearly every major sewing store or buy it online.

Sizes available:  This is truly a tween pattern; it is sized from 8-16.  It also comes in plus sizes!  In addition, I have found that the pants work well on a girl with rounder hips.  Here I am reviewing only the jacket, but I have sewn the pants (view F) twice.  Once for my niece, years ago, and once for my daughter.  Abi, my daughter, does not really have hips, but her cousin does and the pants fit her much better than Abi.

Special materials required:  You will need a separating zipper for this jacket and it is recommended only for knits.

Skill level required:  The jacket is very easy.  The instructions are clear and the pieces are simple.  The pants are a bit more difficult but still doable for an advanced beginner.

How I came to choose the pattern: I bought the pattern years ago from Joann during a sale.  I have used it about 4 times, so that shows that it can be modified for current trends and is worth sewing over and over.

Did you deviate from the pattern?  If yes, how?  I did deviate from the pattern.  Because I was using such a light weight knit fabric, I added ribbed cuffs and a ribbed band at the hem.  If you used a heavier weight fabric, this would be entirely unnecessary.

Overall pattern rating:  This is a bolt pattern.  It is a multifaceted pattern with both a hoodie and different variations on a cargo pant.  Its wide range in sizes makes it good for many tweens.  Plus, it is not hard and a whole coordinating outfit is really doable in a weekend.

Plus Size Round-up

During our kick-off event, we heard from a few of you that you are interested in finding some plus size options.  So, I set off to create a special plus size round-up.  Unfortunately, this is a difficult task ... even more difficult than just finding a fun and functional tween pattern.

But I was determined.  I found Simplicity has by far the best variety of plus patterns.  And if you go search on ebay or etsy, you can find some discontinued plus patterns from a variety of brands.  Below are some pretty good contemporary options that are available in stores and on the internet. 

McCalls 6690

McCalls 6693 views B and D

McCalls 6693 view A

 McCalls 6693 has several views to include two tops, the poncho, a skirt, and leggings.

Simplicity 2470

Simplicity 2689

Simplicity 1625

Simplicity 1548

 I also found a site called Pattern Making for Plus Size Children.  It had all sorts of basic patterns in plus sizes that can be modified and embelished. 

One option from Pattern Making for Plus Size Children

 I did not find any boy patterns that are labeled "plus" sized.  However, I know from experience that Ottobre Magazine often has a few patterns in each issue for 'husky' children and they have wonderful patterns for older boys.

Since there are so few plus patterns, it is even more important that you properly measure you intended wearer and get the fit right.  It will not be enough to just sew it as sized.  You will need to make sure the shoulders, waist, chest and length measurements are adjusted to fit the child.  But this is the wonderful thing about sewing for your tween.  With some effort, you can make something that really fits, and make that wearer feel like a million bucks.

As we do reviews, if we think a particular pattern is well suited for a plus size or simply curvy child, we will make sure to let you know.

Do you know of more patterns that are specifically labeled "plus" or "husky" that you can recommend?

Lolly Pop Swirl--A Review of McCall's M6787

 Lolly Pop Swirl=Candy fit for a Tween and designed by a Tween

She asked for an outfit made from fabric with swirls in it which would remind her of lolly pops and I think I delivered.

Why candy do you ask? Because it's Candy Inspired week over at Project Run and Play

The requirement I gave Sophia was that her design needed to use this pattern, because I wanted to give a trial run in order to write a review. It's McCall's M6787.

Sophia came up with this outfit (which she sketched out with her fashion design thing), which she said reminded her of the swirls on the really big lolly pops with lots of different colors.

I think I was able to capture her vision. I just wasn't able to find a good contrasting patterned knit for the leggings so I went with a solid purple.  And since the fabric for the top was a little see through I made a little shirt for her to wear under it out of the same fabric. I found both at JoAnn's. 

Pattern--McCall's M6787 (as of the time I wrote this, the pattern was on sale for $3 at McCall's site, which is a pretty good price.)

It comes in sizes 7-14 and there is a plus size version as well.

Materials--No special materials needed beyond fabric and elastic

Skill Level--The pattern itself is very easy to sew together and only requires basic skills, but it is all done with knit fabrics which can be tricky at times (especially if you are like me and pick a knit for the top that is kind of lacy like and is a pain to sew). When it comes to knits I highly recommend using your serger or at the very least investing in a double needle.

I picked this pattern up because it goes with my daughter's style of clothes and it seemed like it would be pretty versatile. There are 4 different versions of the top. What I learned was that it was a really easy sew. The pants came together in less then an hour (thanks to using the serger) and the top wasn't that difficult either. 

The only thing I did different was that I did not make the casing for the elastic at the waist of the shirt or even use the elastic. My daughter is more of a belt person and does not like the riding up effect that comes with shirts that have elastic at the waist. The belt is some stretchy ribbon stuff I found at Hobby Lobby sewn on to a set of 'D' rings.

The Good--This was a great pattern to make, simple and straight forward. It would be a great learning to sew with knits pattern. It also came together super fast. I will definitely be doing this one again and try out some of the different variations for the top. The top is the highlight of the pattern. The leggings are really just your typical 2 pattern piece pants with an elastic waist.

The Bad--Really there isn't much bad to say. The only thing wrong with it was probably my fault. I sewed a size 10 and it gapes a little at the neck line and I probably should have gone with an 8. She kind of fell in between the sizes for most of the measurements so I went with the bigger size, giving her room to grow.

What do I think of this pattern?  Definitely lightening bolts     !

Because the top gapes, I gave sewing a undershirt a try. I just used some of the left over fabric from the pants. I wish I had just a little bit more to make it a little longer, but you make do sometimes.

I just used a shirt of hers as a guide and cut out the neck, the side and the arms. I left the fold at the top (the fabric you see here is folded into fourths) for what would have been the shoulder seams and I didn't cut out sleeves. Use the whole shirt to cut out one big piece for the front and back each. Then you sew up the side seams and finish the edges as desired.