Pattern Review: Cascade Jacket

My daughter loves to wear a hoodie or other type of comfy jacket during the winter.  It is part of her standard winter uniform.  And I like the idea of them because in the spring they can be a light jacket.  So when JoAnns had their big door buster sales during the holidays on fleece, I bought a bunch thinking I would use it for her.  My first use was grabbing a pattern I bought for me.  See, she is nearly as tall as me now so I am starting to reach for the XXS in women's sizes.  Are there any of you guys doing the same?  

Name of the pattern:  I chose the Cascade Jacket by Peek-a-Boo Patterns.  It is a high collar, in-seam welt pockets, princess side seams, and a zip-up front.

I screwed up the pockets by not paying attention so I just made a standard welt.

Pattern Source:  Peek-a-Boo Patterns (affiliate link) is a shop that sells both pdf patterns and fabric.

Sizes available:  This is a women's not a child pattern.  So it will work for the larger tweens.  It comes in the sizes XXS to XXXL (00-24) but makes it nice for tweens, is that it also has a cutting line for petite, regular or tall.  I used the XXS, petite size and it fit my 5'2" daughter quite well.

Special materials required:  It is a fleece jacket so you will want some sort of fleece or sweatshirt material.  You also need a separating sport zipper and two regular zippers for the pockets.

Skill level required:  The pattern has more pieces than most hoodies but the instructions are straight forward and really quite simple.  I would classify it as an advanced beginner project.  I got ahead of myself and did not stop to read some instructions while I was sewing the side panels and as a result, I messed up the pockets.  The pocket openings are in the side seam between the front and side front panel.  This is really a great construction technique because you get a welt pocket affect without the work of a welt pocket.  It really keeps it beginner friendly.  BUT, since I skipped that step and serged the seam, I just went ahead and made welt pockets.

How you came to choose the pattern:  I bought this pattern when it first came out last year for myself, but just as my daughter has started to steal my shoes, she is now growing into my sewing patterns.  (But not really ... there is NO way I would fit in an XXS.)

Good:  Without raising the difficulty of the sewing, there are great details to this jacket.  I loved the zipper guard and the flat pockets.  It even reminded you to make a little hanging loop at the neckline. The panels give it a nice shape and give opportunities to color block.  I got this fleece in the remnant section and thus was able to use those panels to make two remnants work for one great jacket.

Bad:  Nothing.  I thoroughly loved sewing this jacket and Abi has been wearing it at least three days a week.  WIN!

Overall pattern rating:  I give this pattern a 5 bolt rating.  

Pixie Hooded Coat by Big Little

I was lucky to get chosen for the test of  the Pixie Hooded Coat by Big Little.

If you want a versatile coat pattern, this is a great find. Depending on the fabric choice, this would make a great Spring, Autumn or Winter coat.

For this coat I used a home decorating fabric for the outside (from JoAnn's) and I cut up a fuzzy blanket for the lining (found on clearance at Target). But it would be great in lighter weight fabrics as well. You'll also need something for the closure (she lists great options in the pattern).

You can find the pattern over at the Big Little Shop along with the Pea Coat version that just has a collar.  It's listed for $8.50 and comes in sizes 1-14. And there's also a women's pattern in the works as well.

As there are no zippers, button holes on any of that kind of stuff that might be a little scary, I would say this is a great beginner pattern, with an outcome that will have people saying, "You sewed that?!?"  Lisa does a great job with instructions and it went through a series of tests to make sure everything was just so, so you know you are getting a good pattern.

The Good: This is a great versatile pattern. You'll be able to use it for multiple seasons and across many ages.  It is also a super easy pattern, with great written/visual instructions, that comes together super fast. I finished this in a morning and my husband just looked at me and said "You just made that in the couple of hours you were sewing?"

The pattern also has a rounded hood option that comes with it (added on after the first test to make the pattern more boy and tween friendly). So don't let the pixie hood deter you if your tween turns up their nose at that look. (But you should really look at the cute pictures of toddlers and babies in the pixie hood...they are adorable.) I also made another version for my other daughter, in which I think the pixie hood makes the coat. Sophia didn't think it was so bad and actually wears the coat to middle school...so that's saying something.

Because of the simplicity of the pattern, this would also be a great coat pattern to play around with contrasting fabrics, color blocking, bias tape, etc...to make it a show piece.

As for the bad and ugly...there are none. I really did enjoy making this pattern and will probably be making one for me in the future. I need a light weight Spring/Fall jacket, so I'm on the hunt for the perfect fabric. Again the pattern is the Pixie Hooded Coat by BigLittle.

This is a 5 bolt pattern!!!

Pattern review: Burdastyle Blouson Jacket

Today we have a guest reviewer Eliza of Eliza Threads.  I (Major Moma) saw this jacket on Burdastyle and right away asked Eliza to do a review for us.

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A bit about me

I’m a self taught sewer and have been sewing since I was a girl. Mostly for me but now I have girls of my own I love to sew for them too!! I think this website specifically for tweens is a great idea – it’s a tricky age. My girls are 9 and 12 and now they are tweenagers they don’t like the cutesy kids stuff much anymore so its great to see what others are sewing for their tweens too!

Name of the pattern:  Blouson 148

Pattern Source:  Burdastyle magazine March 2013

Sizes available:  Sizes 134 to 158 which is equivalent to size 8 to 16 in age I think although that’s not how it worked out for me.

Special materials required: Zipper foot

Skill level required:  Intermediate

How you came to choose the pattern:  My daughter had been asking me for a winter bomber jacket and had picked out some heavy wool coating. I had been looking for a while for a pattern before I found this pattern in a Burdastyle mag at my local library.

Did you deviate from the pattern? If yes, how?

I deviated quite a bit from the pattern. I added a hood using another pattern and enlarging it a little around the neck to fit. Seeing it made up now I think it would have been better to make it a bit bigger still. If I were to make it again I would enlarge the hood and the neckline. The other thing I changed was the way it fastens at the front. I decided to put a zipper in with a cover over the zipper because sometimes if it’s particularly windy it can be felt through the zip teeth! I also added some toggle closures because I love any excuse to add some cute toggles! I lined the jacket in some cotton jersey and included a secret pocket with a zip for money and phone etc. 

The other thing that I changed was the size. My daughter is 12 and is not big for her age but these patterns seem to run a bit small so I traced it out at a 16 and because the wool fabric was so thick and heavy I added 2cm at the side and shoulder seams. It fits really well, as in its big enough to fit a jumper (sweater) under it which was the fit I was hoping for. I only wish I had made the sleeves a little longer though, if she has a growth spurt they are going to be too short. So I would recommend carefully measuring your small persons arm length before you cut!!

Good: I think this is a really great style – perfect for a boy or a girl. I think this would also be really cute in a lighter floral or more decorative fabric for spring/summer.

Bad: Not sure about the sizing of this pattern – I would definitely recommend making a toile first to check the size and fit and consider whether you want to be able to wear a layer or two under it. The pattern pieces need to be traced and seam allowances added which is a bit time consuming and I generally find Burda pattern instructions a little hard to understand. They are all text with no diagrams so it’s a good idea to have a bit of sewing experience before you tackle one.

Ugly: Not ugly at all!!

Overall pattern rating: 4 bolts

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Thank you Eliza for sharing about this pattern.  You did a great job making a jacket I think any tween would love.  Everyone, you should go check more details on her blog: Eliza Threads  

"Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow" - Snow Suits

Today we are welcoming back Amy from Peek-a-Boo Patterns.  (Update: Sew Cool now has a few affiliate links and Peek-a-boo Patterns is one of them.  We think Amy carries great patterns for tweens so we think the affiliate program is a good fit.)  This summer, she shared with us her line of swimsuit patterns and now she is sharing the opposite, snow suits.  Snow gear can be very expensive but very necessary in some climates.  Amy has developed a pattern that can give your child quality snow gear that fits their tastes.

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Winter is almost here and it's time to think about snow gear! This is something I never thought I would sew but you know what? I did it and it was a lot of fun! And not nearly as intimidated as I thought it might be :) Most importantly my little girl is so happy to have a snow suit made just for her in fabrics she loves!

 

The Polar Pal Parka is new to Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop (affiliate link)and includes all of the details you'd expect to find in high end snow gear. The 4-piece hood zips up nice and high to keep little chins snug and warm.

The color blocking on the side seams is optional but it does add an extra bit of fun!

My favorite features is the cuffs! These are not hard at all but give your parka such a professional finish! The back half is elastic and the front has a velcro tab so you can adjust the cuff to get a nice snug fit over any size mitten and keep the snow out.

And of course every parka needs pockets! The pattern includes zippered pockets or inseam pockets.

The Polar Pal Parka is an advanced sew and took my testing team an average of 4-5 hours to complete. If you choose to skip the color blocking and pockets you can definitely whip it up a bit more quickly :) It has 3 layers for added warmth and coziness. While it is a bit more time consuming of a project you will be so proud when you're finished! I love that it's something I know will get tons of wear this winter (and probably next year too)!

 

Don't forget some Blizzard Buddy Snow Pants to go with your Parka! If you buy both patterns remember to use the code "snowman" to save $3 at checkout. These are an intermediate sew and took my testing an average of 2 hours to complete so this is a much quicker project with a nice professional finish

 

My favorite part is the optional powder cuff to keep the snow out of boots :)

Both patterns include a very detailed section on choosing your fabrics. Believe it or not you can get everything you need for this project at most chain fabric stores! The pattern will walk you through the different options depending on your budge and the warmth factor you're looking for. I made my set from PUL outer layer, batting interlining and fleece lining and it is super cozy! I was really happy with how the PUL sewed up and it comes in lots of fun prints and patterns.

Questions?

Feel free to contact me

affiliate link

Making Colored Fur Coats

Now that you have decided whether your tween would wear colored fur, how are you going to make it?

Pale Cloud

Fur is not hard to sew, but it does have some special considerations.  One is all that fur.  What you will need to do in order to reduce bulk, is to trim the seam allowances down.  That way, you can sew without all that fur in the way and your seams will not be too bulky.  Second after sewing, you will need to take a small tool, like a stylus, and gently pull the fur on the right side out of the seam.

For more tips on how to sew fur, you can go to this Instructables post or Sew 4 Home.

Several stores carry colored fur and minky is a nice alternative to faux fur.  Here are a couple fabric options that caught my eye on Fabric.com.

Minky Crushed Cuddle fabric

Minky Soft Lattice Cuddle fabric

Minky Crushed Cuddle fabric

There are several jacket patterns out there, many that we featured on our "Making Moto" post in September.  But as winter is coming around the corner, I thought I would also point out some great heavier jacket patterns.

Burdastyle Long Dress Coat

Burdastyle Girl's Asymmetric coat

Peek-a-Boo Pattern's Dowton Duffle (affiliate link)

Peek-a-Boo Pattern's Alpine Wonderland (affiliate link)

Peak-a-Boo Pattern's Great Outdoors Reversible Vest (affiliate link)

And if making a whole coat is not on your list, then what about a hat, scarf, or some mittens.  Then your tween can follow this trend without you giving up a couple weekends.  Here are a few tutorials you may find useful.

Sew Creative

Flamingo Toes

How to Sew a Fur Hat video  

If you make something with fur, colored or otherwise, we would love to see it and hear about your experience.  You can link up to our monthly party or shoot us an email and maybe we can have you guest post!

Would they were that? Colored Fur

It is time for another installment of Would They Wear That?   And this time I am featuring a very fun and wild trend ... colored fur.  I know that tweens can be very self conscious and not want to stand out, and this is definitely a stand out kind of trend.  But, I also think when you are young, you can really have fun with some of these crazy trends.  When you are young, you do not need to worry about looking 'professional' or being taken seriously.

So here are a few takes of colored fur that are on the runway for this fall:

source

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And the colored fur trends are not staying on the runway or in adult fashion.  Several boutique children's designers are using colored fur in their lines.

Pale Cloud

Mayoral Girls Pink Gilet

Super Trash girls jacket

I love how different designers are using the colored fur to create accents or go all out bold and rocker. This is a style that I think my daughter would love because she has always enjoyed a little bit of edge or something different in the clothes that I make her.

So what about your tween?  Would they wear colored fur?