Pattern Review: Jalie drop pocket cardigan

I love layering pieces and this is a great one. I (Major Moma) first heard about the Drop Pocket Cardigan at on the blog Baste and Gather.  I thought it would be a good addition to my girl's wardrobe and something I can sew over and over again.

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Pattern Source:  Jalie is a Canadian pattern company that sells both paper and pdf patterns.  

Sizes available:  One of the best aspects of Jalie patterns is the size range.  This pattern runs from girls to plus sized women ... 27 sizes in all.  How is that for a pattern for all of your girls?

Special materials required: The drop pocket cardigan is designed for knit fabrics and has a slim fit on the arm so you cannot deviate from using a knit.  Also, the front is doubled up so you should probably veer away from anything too bulky.  Jalie recommends knit with 40% stretch across the grain and 20% in the length.

Skill level required:  The construction of the front was not obvious to me and I had to read the instructions a couple of time.  So, I would not recommend this pattern to beginners.  But, once I started putting it together, it was a quick sew and I did not make any mistakes.  So it is not too advanced.

Good:  My tween loves the length and the deep pockets.  It is a comfy and stylish layering piece.

Bad:  The instructions have limited illustrations and so it is imperative that you read the instructions before you start and then as you go.

Overall pattern rating:  I would give this pattern 3 and 1/2 bolts.  It would be higher if the instructions were a little better.

Hibernis - Pattern Review

I (Stacy) have been lucky enough to test a few patterns for Sofilantjes in the last few months.  Anne is great to work with and has produced some very nice, and unique, patterns.  I love it when pattern makers move beyond the t-shirt and basic hoodie.

Here is a review of the Hibernis tunic by Sofilantjes.

Name of the pattern: Hibernis Top

Pattern Source: Sofilantes, pattern is in Dutch and English, it is layered and includes a copy shop copy for large format printing.

Sizes available: 12M- 14

Special materials required: Knit about 1.5 yds, snaps or buttons

Skill level required: Experienced beginner

How you came to choose the pattern: I volunteered to pattern test it

Did you deviate from the pattern?  No

Good:

I love this unique top!  She didn't have to make many adjustments to this one, and it was pretty well fitting from the start.  

The cowl is detachable and not a part of the shirt.  The tabs on the shoulders keep it in place.  The pockets can be placed in whatever direction you may choose.  This is a great cut, and it looked so cute on all of the testers’ girls.  I did the pockets different that the pictures, and put the small one in front and large one in back.  It gives access to the small one and the lines on the front look better with both pockets showing.

The front panel would be great for a panel fabric.  I added HTV to one of the tops for my daughter.  I went with a 10W and 12L measurement on this, and it ended up a little longer than I think it was supposed to be.  I like how it worked as a tunic, but measure the length to make sure it will be the length you want.

Issues:

The cowl is complicated to put together if you are not used to a bagged type of sewing.  There is a link to a Youtube video, so definitely watch that if you need help.

Overall pattern rating:

Mimi Revisited

Over a year ago we were apart of the Mimi Dress Tour for Filles a Maman.  Well, in order to bring a little variety to my daughter's back to school wardrobe I decided to break out that pattern.

Last time, Sally sewed up a beautiful white short sleeve version.  This time I sewed up a long sleeve version.  My daughter is thin so I made the width to her measurements.  Next time I will not slim it down so that it is not so fitted.

My daughter says it is very comfortable and she loves the way it turned out with the fabric she chose on fabric.com.

I think it was definitely a good call to break out a pattern that had been in storage.

Pattern Review: Cascade Jacket

My daughter loves to wear a hoodie or other type of comfy jacket during the winter.  It is part of her standard winter uniform.  And I like the idea of them because in the spring they can be a light jacket.  So when JoAnns had their big door buster sales during the holidays on fleece, I bought a bunch thinking I would use it for her.  My first use was grabbing a pattern I bought for me.  See, she is nearly as tall as me now so I am starting to reach for the XXS in women's sizes.  Are there any of you guys doing the same?  

Name of the pattern:  I chose the Cascade Jacket by Peek-a-Boo Patterns.  It is a high collar, in-seam welt pockets, princess side seams, and a zip-up front.

I screwed up the pockets by not paying attention so I just made a standard welt.

Pattern Source:  Peek-a-Boo Patterns (affiliate link) is a shop that sells both pdf patterns and fabric.

Sizes available:  This is a women's not a child pattern.  So it will work for the larger tweens.  It comes in the sizes XXS to XXXL (00-24) but makes it nice for tweens, is that it also has a cutting line for petite, regular or tall.  I used the XXS, petite size and it fit my 5'2" daughter quite well.

Special materials required:  It is a fleece jacket so you will want some sort of fleece or sweatshirt material.  You also need a separating sport zipper and two regular zippers for the pockets.

Skill level required:  The pattern has more pieces than most hoodies but the instructions are straight forward and really quite simple.  I would classify it as an advanced beginner project.  I got ahead of myself and did not stop to read some instructions while I was sewing the side panels and as a result, I messed up the pockets.  The pocket openings are in the side seam between the front and side front panel.  This is really a great construction technique because you get a welt pocket affect without the work of a welt pocket.  It really keeps it beginner friendly.  BUT, since I skipped that step and serged the seam, I just went ahead and made welt pockets.

How you came to choose the pattern:  I bought this pattern when it first came out last year for myself, but just as my daughter has started to steal my shoes, she is now growing into my sewing patterns.  (But not really ... there is NO way I would fit in an XXS.)

Good:  Without raising the difficulty of the sewing, there are great details to this jacket.  I loved the zipper guard and the flat pockets.  It even reminded you to make a little hanging loop at the neckline. The panels give it a nice shape and give opportunities to color block.  I got this fleece in the remnant section and thus was able to use those panels to make two remnants work for one great jacket.

Bad:  Nothing.  I thoroughly loved sewing this jacket and Abi has been wearing it at least three days a week.  WIN!

Overall pattern rating:  I give this pattern a 5 bolt rating.