Pattern Review: Blaverry Koko Skinny Jeans

We have a guest post today on making your tween skinny jeans.  Yes.  You can make your tween stylish jeans that they will want to wear!  Kristi over at Kopy Kat Kidz has come back to introduce us to a jean pattern by Blaverry.  Thank you Kristi for sharing with us.


Name of the pattern:

The pattern I’m using for this review is the Koko Skinny Jeans.

Pattern Source:

This pattern is from the company Blaverry found at the online store.

Sizes available:

2T to 16

Special materials required:

The extra things I needed were a jeans zipper and jeans needle.  You could also use top-stitching thread and rivets but I didn’t.

Skill level required:

I think this is probably an intermediate pattern to sew up.  I say this because zipper installations can feel a little tricky if you haven’t done them before and sewing jeans can seem overwhelming because there are quite a few steps.  Although now that I’m made several pairs of jeans it’s not that tough if you just go step by step and follow the pattern instructions carefully.

one piece pocket linings!

How you came to choose the pattern:

I chose this pattern because I had been looking for a skinny pair of jeans for my daughter that didn’t
include elastic in the waist (since she doesn’t appreciate that.)  And that truly look skinny and not just slim.  She’s very picky about her jeans, so if I am going to sew some they have to be near perfect in that department!

pocket lining to front

Look at that professional zipper fly!

Did you deviate from the pattern?  If yes, how?

I made them Capri length because that was all the fabric I had left over from my jeans.  Since this was my first pair of them I didn’t want to buy new fabric.  I also didn’t add the penny pocket or the rivets.

You can include button hole elastic in the waistband to make it adjustable, but I just sized down one size and made sure they fit before I finished up the waistband.  I also took in the legs a little (maybe ½”) to get the fit just perfect on her little legs.

Good:

The pocket installation is different than I have ever done but it is so professional looking.  I included a few pictures.  The wonderful thing about having the pocket like this is that it doesn’t pull out or bunch up like some pockets do.  I also loved how appropriately sized the back pockets are.  They aren’t too big or  small, just perfect.  Also you can print only the size you need so you don’t have to differentiate between all the size lines.  I love that feature in a pattern.

Bad:

I think zipper installation is sometimes hard to wrap your brain around in general, but taking it slow and following the instructions carefully made for a great installation.

Ugly:

None, this was a wonderful pattern!

Overall pattern rating:

I am giving this pattern a top score of five bolts because the pattern was fantastic and the fit turned out great.  She has

worn them so much as it’s turning to spring.

Designer Spotlight--Tami of Love Notions

Today we have another great installment of our Designer Spotlight...this time we have Tami, of Love Notions. She has been a favorite here at Sew Cool because she not only designs trendy looks for tweens, but they truly are easy to sew and oh so comfortable. My daughters can attest to that. So I present to you Tami and her pattern line, Love Notions.

How would you describe Love Notions patterns/brand?

I want the Love Notions brand to bring to mind trendy, easy to sew, easy to wear patterns focusing on knits. I design for girls, boys and ladies but those ‘inbetween girls’ are my sweet spot.
 

Girls La Bella Tunic with hood

What makes Love Notions patterns unique/stand out?

My vision for LN was to be a user friendly pattern, focusing on sewing with knits. I especially like to focus on the older girls since I have one and I see a void in the marketplace for clothing that she’d be happy to wear.
 

Love Notions Wrigley Raglan Tee and Dress

How long have you been designing patterns?

I have been designing patterns for just over a year. I got started with the digital drafting and grading part by taking the Pattern Workshop course by Lauren Dahl. I highly recommend it, it was exactly what I needed to take the leap into pattern design after doing everything by hand for years.

What made you start?

I got my start back in 2004 when I launched my custom clothing business Dunk-n-Fluff. At that time my daughter was just a few months old and I need to find more cloth diapering friendly clothing. Since then my business evolved as she grew and then finally I made the leap into offering my original designs as patterns for everyone. Mallory is now eleven. She’s been my inspiration from the start and continues to be my guiding light. Kind of crazy how I’ve gone from making her cloth diapers, baby clothes to toddler dresses and now to trendy clothes that she admires.

Posh Popover Maxi Dress

Where do you turn for inspiration?

I get my inspiration from several places. I get a lot of children’s clothing magazines (Tea, Hanna Andersen, Osh Kosh, etc.). I also hunt through Pinterest for fun ideas. Once I zero in on a design I like the look of I’ll call Mallory in and ask her if she would wear it. As a general rule, I won’t design anything I wouldn’t let my daughter wear as far as modesty goes.

What's the most challenging part of designing patterns?

Time management! I love the actual process of designing a pattern, sewing samples, even testing. It’s fitting it all in while still being a mom, wife and primary housekeeper that’s challenging. I’m not going to lie, nine times out of ten I have a couch full of laundry waiting to be folded and put away!

Maxx-ine Slim Fit Pants

Why do you focus on tween sizes?

It’s what I know! And it helps that I have a live-in model that is usually very compliant. She knows when I call for her while I’m in my sewing room I need her help with fitting or her advice. I also think there’s a gap in the tween market so I’m doing my best to help fill it.

What's coming down the road from Love Notions?

I like to fly by the seat of my pants. I rarely have a plan for what I’m doing for the next week, much less months. My goal is to release a new pattern every month. I also want to focus more on the blog aspect and do a few tutorial, hacks and mash-ups. Something fun, for sure!

Bluezette Dress for Girls

Of the thirty plus patterns I've publishes so far, here are me and Mallory's favorite 'tween patterns:

La Bella Top & Tunic, Maxx-ine Pants & Skirt, Wrigley Raglan, Posh Popover Collection, Bluezette Dress.

Go-to 'tween patterns from Love Notions

Thank you so much Tami! It's always fun to get to know a little more about the ins and outs of what goes on behind the scenes, so to say.

On top of introducing you to a great pattern line, we also have a give-a-way. Tami has generously offered one of each of the 5 patterns shown above to one of our readers...that's 5 amazing patterns!!!!  (You have one week to enter)

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Designer Interview: Blaverry Patterns

Today we have a fun post for you.  In the past, we have interviewed designers of sewing patterns in order to get the inside scoop into their brand and creative process.  Here we get to interview Christie from Blaverry patterns.  Sally and I stumbled upon her brand on Etsy about a year ago and were excited about her style.  Now, Christie has a brand new website and just released a GREAT collection.  Her styles are streamlined and on trend but not overly trendy.

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How would you describe the BLAVERRY brand? 

I developed BLAVERRY to have a clean and simple aesthetic that is very recognizable... something that parents and children of all ages will enjoy shopping and be inspired from.

 What makes BLAVERRY unique?

There are so many aspects that make BLAVERRY unique from other pdf pattern designers but here are a few differences to name a few:

The brand name itself is completely unique combining my 3 kids names into one.

My designs are very focused on everyday style that is comfortable and teen inspired.

BLAVERRY buyers get a shopping experience like no other starting with the easy to navigate web site, professional images, fun "behind the scenes" video and soon to come video tutorials. PLUS, with BLAVERRY you always get the BEST customer service available.

How long have you been designing patterns?

My history is long when it comes to sewing and designing but I will go back to when I decided to take my Kustom Kids Boutique designs to ebook over 6 years ago. I was one of the first designers to take my designs to ebook and after 1 year I sold the business. (now called Juvi Moon) A year ago I decided to make a come back but with a very different goal in mind.

What made you decide to be a pattern designer? 

My decision to get back into pattern designing came from a love of children's fashion, a desire to dress them in well made/fitted, unique clothes at an affordable price. 

What was your inspiration for the current collection?

Comfort with classic lines and unique detail elements are the main vibe with my current collection.

What do you find to be the most challenging part of putting together a collection and not just individual pattern releases?

Ahh, yes, it is very challenging to pull off complete collections verses individual patterns. The challenge of the time crunch is the hardest part. I am dealing with so many different patterns at different stages at one time, so organization is paramount. The guilt I feel over sending so many patterns in a short period of time to my INCREDIBLE testers is hard on me. (THANK YOU to my awesome team!) And sewing each pattern for all of the models in a short period is fun too, lol. But I LOVE every step of the process so it's a great reward to me.

So many designers shy away from the larger children’s sizes; what motivated you to size up to 16yr?

The older sizes is where my true passion is. My daughter and I really obsess over super stylish clothing so the teen styles are just right for me.

What's to come?

I have a lot of great and exciting things that are lined up for BLAVERRY.

I will be posting "Instructional Videos" in the coming days.

I will be expanding my patterns to Boys this summer.

Then adult patterns and more will follow.

I look forward to growing my facebook group so that we can come together to do fun events like "sew a-longs"

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Pattern Review: Ready to Go biker jacket

Today we have Sabra from Sew a Straight Line sharing an amazing boy project.  Who says you cannot sew cool things for boys????  She shared this jacket on Project Run and Play and I (Major Moma) just knew we had to have her share it here too.

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Hi, I’m Sabra from Sew a Straight Line and I’m here to talk about the Ready to Go denim biker jacket by Ottobre Design.  The jacket pattern is found in issue 4/2014, pattern #40. 



This pattern is for older kids, perfect for tweens, with a size range of 134-170 cm.  All of Ottobre patterns, a Finish pattern magazine, come in metric European sizing, which goes off the height of the child.  This took me some getting used to, when I first started sewing Ottobre patterns two years ago.  Now, I prefer it.  It is much more accurate and consistent than traditional US sizing.  It also means that I keep accurate measurements of my children up to date.  In my experience, 134cm is about a child’s size 7/8 in US sizing, with 170 being about a 16/18.  I sewed the biker jacket in a 152 for my 11 year old, who wears a child large or 12 in ready to wear.  The finished jacket fits him well.  It’s not super fitted on him, so he can layer clothing under it and use it as a functional jacket.  I’m very happy with the fit, and so is he. 



Sewing a jacket can be expensive, and the Ready to Go requires quite a bit of hardware.  It needs the heavy-duty separating zipper for the front, plus four additional zippers for pockets and cuff details.  I wanted to keep things consistent, and durable, so went with metal outer-wear zippers for all five.  In addition to the zippers, the jacket uses 10 heavy-duty snaps as functioning closures and additional details.



I was able to purchase all of my hardware at a big-box fabric store, using coupons.  Going the route I did, I probably spent close to $20 in just hardware.  You could likely use cheaper materials, but it might compromise the look and/or the durability of the finished jacket.



The pattern calls for denim for the outer shell of the jacket.  I used outdoor canvas.  I had it on-hand, and after spending so much on hardware, thought I should try to save some money on fabric.  Plus, it was the exact color I wanted.  The canvas I used was intended for outdoor furniture and had been treated with waterproofing.  I thought this would be perfect for a jacket, and it has worked well.  Water beads on the jacket.  If using denim or other canvas, I’d look into waxing the material to make the jacket most-weather appropriate.  Plus, waxing just looks so cool!

For the lining, used a shiny synthetic that was in my stash.  I’m sorry, I don’t know what it is exactly.  It has no stretch, and is fairly thin.



It worked quite well as lining.  The pattern also calls for a small amount of cotton for the pocket bags.  I just used the same fabric for the pockets as I did for the lining.


     
This was a pretty intense sew.  There are 14 pattern pieces, ending with a total of 42 cut pieces to sew together! Plus, interfacing,the three zippers, and finishing with the 10 snaps.  Tons of topstitching, a full lining, and some new-to-me techniques made this a lengthy, and challenging project.  But I did enjoy it quite a bit, too.  I’d say this jacket is, at least, a Confident Intermediate sew.  Most of the sewing isn’t difficult, but there is a lot of it. 

The hardest part, for me, was attaching the lined cuffs to the lined sleeve.  I couldn’t figure it out by reading the instructions.  Ottobre is great with instructions, and very thorough, but they do not include illustrations of the process, usually.  The attaching of the cuffs was near the end of the marathon sewing of the jacket, and my brain just couldn’t process how to get things sewn together without exposed seams.  So I fudged and just sewed right sides together, leaving exposed seams at the top of the cuffs on the inside.

 
I’m okay with it.  You can't tell from the outside at all, even when zipped fully open.



But now that I have stepped back from the jacket, and it’s been a few weeks, I *think* I understand what Ottobre wanted me to do to keep things finished inside and out.  I’d recommend breaking the sewing of the jacket into a few days, and not trying to do it all in an afternoon like I did!

I also messed up at the hem in a couple of different ways.  I didn't keep things neat and pretty on the inside when attaching the waistband. No excuse for this, really.  I was just tired and wanted to finish, so sped through a step that I should have taken my time on; pinning, smoothing, and otherwise making sure things were done properly.


 My other mistake was that, when I went to attach the waistband, couldn't understand why it was so long.  I had an extra few inches at the one end, hanging off the edge of the jacket.  I assumed I'd cut wrong, and lopped those extra inches right off.  If I had been smart, I would have consulted the line drawings of the pattern and seen that the waistband does, in fact, extend off the left side, crossing over onto the right, as a style effect.  I didn't discover my mistake until I went to install my snaps at the very end and realized I had lost that really cool bottom look.  Don’t lop off anything before double checking with the pattern!



You can also see, from these pictures, that my stitching isn't great.  I ran out of topstitching thread part way through, but was in too much of a rush to go buy more.  So I tried, for a while, to do double stitching with regular thread.  But that got tedious and looked messy.  So then I just finished things with regular thread, which didn't sew very smoothly through the thick layers of canvas. 

Overall, the jacket is great.  I’m very happy with the end product, lopped off waistband and all.  It looks cool, fits well, and does not look homemade (unless you look closely at the ugly stitching in places).  The details in the jacket are fabulous, and so authentic.  The shoulders are padded and quilted,



There is a hanging tab inside the collar of the neck, elbow darts, and then all that piecing and topstitching.  Real deal, so cool!  

I can't think of one thing I would change on this pattern.  The only issues I had, were ones where I made a mistake in spite of the instructions and the pattern.  The fit is great, it looks amazing, totally professional details and finishing, and you get exactly what you expect to get going in.  This is definitely not a pattern to rush into or through, and not for anyone new to sewing.  But if you have the patience, the time, and a good understanding of garment construction and techniques, I absolutely recommend the Ready to Go jacket. 



I give it a full five bolts, for yielding a jacket just like the pictures promise, for walking you through all the steps (even those I tripped up on), a great size range with a fabulous fit, and for including so many professional details. Like, all the details.  You can see more pictures of the jacket, and the rest of the outfit I made to go with it using two other Ottobre patterns, on my blog, Sew a Straight Line

Pattern Review: Etage Dress and Top

We recently were connected by a reader, the lovely Joan, she wanted to share a new pattern that she has sewn for her grandchildren and neighbor kids.  So of course we asked her if she would be willing to do a reveiw so everyone can see this pattern.  And she kindly complied. 

Here is her review of the Etage Dress and top by Sew Straight and Gather.

Pattern Source: Sew Straight Patterns  at sewstraightandgather.com

Sizes available: 12 months to 12 years

Special materials required: You need knit fabric, in one or several colours. T-shirt knits are the easiest to work with, and lighter weight is better.

Skill level required: Advanced Beginner.   You will need a bit of experience sewing with knits, but there are no buttons zippers or anything complicated. The actual sewing is easy, but because the Etage is asymmetrical, you need to keep your wits about you when cutting and assembling. However, there is a great series of picture to walk you through this.

How you came to choose the pattern: I was part of the original tester group. The designer Terri worked really hard at that, putting us through several different versions until she had it perfect. The instructions and the sizing for the Etage are perfect!

Did you deviate from the pattern?  If yes, how?  The two in my pictures are standard size 9 and 11. I just added leggings to match with the Top version to make it a complete outfit.

Good:

 Sizes: This pattern comes in a huge range of sizes, and seem to please every girl. My nine and twelve year old neighbours loved theirs, my 4 year old granddaughter has 3 now, and I have two more on the cutting table for my 11 and 13 year old granddaughters. Our tester group had girls of every age, and it looked great on all of them.

Style: The Etage is twirly, and unique in its look and construction. There is a top version with three layers and a dress version with four, along with several different sleeve lengths and a sleeveless version. You can use one fabric for the whole thing, or combine several different ones as you wish.  You can use a regular hem, a rolled hem, or a lettuce edge for various looks. Check out the different versions on the website for inspiration. The end result can be anything from cute and playful if you make it in several prints, to super- sophisticated – check out the all black version on the website.

The Pattern: You can print the whole pattern, or just the size you need. The instructions are excellent and there are very clear pictures to walk you right through the process.

Bad:   Pattern assembly takes a while, and you need to pay close attention when you are cutting it out. Terri has provided wonderful diagrams to make the pattern assembly easy, and the patterns are well marked to keep cutting clear. It’s not difficult, just time consuming. And the sewing itself is quick and easy.

My hints to make this process go smoothly:

 1. Unless you know for sure you will only make size 12, avoid the temptation to print just one size and assemble the whole thing and trace the size you need on tissue paper. That gets most of the work done up front.

2. Put a sticky note with the name of each piece on the cut out fabric. This is especially true if your fabric looks the same on both sides. Lay it out on the floor beside you, just the way Terri shows you in the diagram, and work your way through following the instructions.

3. If you upcycle some old Tshirts for your first version and use several different colours so you don’t get confused, you‘ll be an expert by the time you move on to your pricier fabric.

Ugly: nothing!

Overall pattern rating: 5 bolts

Pattern review: Burdastyle Blouson Jacket

Today we have a guest reviewer Eliza of Eliza Threads.  I (Major Moma) saw this jacket on Burdastyle and right away asked Eliza to do a review for us.

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A bit about me

I’m a self taught sewer and have been sewing since I was a girl. Mostly for me but now I have girls of my own I love to sew for them too!! I think this website specifically for tweens is a great idea – it’s a tricky age. My girls are 9 and 12 and now they are tweenagers they don’t like the cutesy kids stuff much anymore so its great to see what others are sewing for their tweens too!

Name of the pattern:  Blouson 148

Pattern Source:  Burdastyle magazine March 2013

Sizes available:  Sizes 134 to 158 which is equivalent to size 8 to 16 in age I think although that’s not how it worked out for me.

Special materials required: Zipper foot

Skill level required:  Intermediate

How you came to choose the pattern:  My daughter had been asking me for a winter bomber jacket and had picked out some heavy wool coating. I had been looking for a while for a pattern before I found this pattern in a Burdastyle mag at my local library.

Did you deviate from the pattern? If yes, how?

I deviated quite a bit from the pattern. I added a hood using another pattern and enlarging it a little around the neck to fit. Seeing it made up now I think it would have been better to make it a bit bigger still. If I were to make it again I would enlarge the hood and the neckline. The other thing I changed was the way it fastens at the front. I decided to put a zipper in with a cover over the zipper because sometimes if it’s particularly windy it can be felt through the zip teeth! I also added some toggle closures because I love any excuse to add some cute toggles! I lined the jacket in some cotton jersey and included a secret pocket with a zip for money and phone etc. 

The other thing that I changed was the size. My daughter is 12 and is not big for her age but these patterns seem to run a bit small so I traced it out at a 16 and because the wool fabric was so thick and heavy I added 2cm at the side and shoulder seams. It fits really well, as in its big enough to fit a jumper (sweater) under it which was the fit I was hoping for. I only wish I had made the sleeves a little longer though, if she has a growth spurt they are going to be too short. So I would recommend carefully measuring your small persons arm length before you cut!!

Good: I think this is a really great style – perfect for a boy or a girl. I think this would also be really cute in a lighter floral or more decorative fabric for spring/summer.

Bad: Not sure about the sizing of this pattern – I would definitely recommend making a toile first to check the size and fit and consider whether you want to be able to wear a layer or two under it. The pattern pieces need to be traced and seam allowances added which is a bit time consuming and I generally find Burda pattern instructions a little hard to understand. They are all text with no diagrams so it’s a good idea to have a bit of sewing experience before you tackle one.

Ugly: Not ugly at all!!

Overall pattern rating: 4 bolts

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Thank you Eliza for sharing about this pattern.  You did a great job making a jacket I think any tween would love.  Everyone, you should go check more details on her blog: Eliza Threads  

"Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow" - Snow Suits

Today we are welcoming back Amy from Peek-a-Boo Patterns.  (Update: Sew Cool now has a few affiliate links and Peek-a-boo Patterns is one of them.  We think Amy carries great patterns for tweens so we think the affiliate program is a good fit.)  This summer, she shared with us her line of swimsuit patterns and now she is sharing the opposite, snow suits.  Snow gear can be very expensive but very necessary in some climates.  Amy has developed a pattern that can give your child quality snow gear that fits their tastes.

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Winter is almost here and it's time to think about snow gear! This is something I never thought I would sew but you know what? I did it and it was a lot of fun! And not nearly as intimidated as I thought it might be :) Most importantly my little girl is so happy to have a snow suit made just for her in fabrics she loves!

 

The Polar Pal Parka is new to Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop (affiliate link)and includes all of the details you'd expect to find in high end snow gear. The 4-piece hood zips up nice and high to keep little chins snug and warm.

The color blocking on the side seams is optional but it does add an extra bit of fun!

My favorite features is the cuffs! These are not hard at all but give your parka such a professional finish! The back half is elastic and the front has a velcro tab so you can adjust the cuff to get a nice snug fit over any size mitten and keep the snow out.

And of course every parka needs pockets! The pattern includes zippered pockets or inseam pockets.

The Polar Pal Parka is an advanced sew and took my testing team an average of 4-5 hours to complete. If you choose to skip the color blocking and pockets you can definitely whip it up a bit more quickly :) It has 3 layers for added warmth and coziness. While it is a bit more time consuming of a project you will be so proud when you're finished! I love that it's something I know will get tons of wear this winter (and probably next year too)!

 

Don't forget some Blizzard Buddy Snow Pants to go with your Parka! If you buy both patterns remember to use the code "snowman" to save $3 at checkout. These are an intermediate sew and took my testing an average of 2 hours to complete so this is a much quicker project with a nice professional finish

 

My favorite part is the optional powder cuff to keep the snow out of boots :)

Both patterns include a very detailed section on choosing your fabrics. Believe it or not you can get everything you need for this project at most chain fabric stores! The pattern will walk you through the different options depending on your budge and the warmth factor you're looking for. I made my set from PUL outer layer, batting interlining and fleece lining and it is super cozy! I was really happy with how the PUL sewed up and it comes in lots of fun prints and patterns.

Questions?

Feel free to contact me

affiliate link